Valley of the Giants

by Petra Bucheli
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Wednesday 4th April, 2012

The rain was the most faithful company we had today. At times weaker, at times stronger, sometimes a break and then of another time the full programme. Due to the bad weather we saw a few emus and kangaroos on the pastures at the side of the road. We wanted to visit a waterfall at Beedelup National Park. The path led over a suspension bridge from where we did not see any waterfall. Despite all the rain only a little water dropped over the rocks. After this short walk we drove to Gloucester National Park. Here we visited the Gloucester Tree, which is 72 m tall and the worlds tallest fire lookout tree. The platform was used until 1952 and in this area 8 other karri trees where also mounted like that. On a kind of spiral stairs with metal sticks we could have climbed up, but due to the rain it was too dangerous. Armed with rainproof clothes we dared out of the camper and walked a 800 m path to watch karri trees. The karris are a sort of eucalyptus which is only growing in western and south-western Australia. As there is a chain of National Parks in this region we were driving for hours through many karri forests. Our next destination was the Valley of the Giants. Here there are tingle trees, another kind of eucalyptus which can get up to 400 years old. The trees can get 60 m tall and may have a circumference of 16 m. In the trees there is a suspension bridge construction so we could watch the trees from above. The highest point was at 40 m. Then we walked a path leading to old and partially hollow trees. I was impressed how tall and wide the trees can get. As it got soon evening we drove to Denmark and stayed at the water. Next to our camper the Denmark River flows into the Wilson Inlet.

Kalbarri National Park

by Petra Bucheli
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Sunday 25th March 2012

The alarm clock did not yet get of as early as today. It should ring on 5:45, but I realized it only on 6 o'clock. We hoped to see the sun through the Nature's Window. Unfortunately this did not happen until 8 am, so we went to the Z Bend viewpoint. On our morning drive through the national park we saw an emu and kangaroos. At the Z Bend we enjoyed the view over the gorge of the Murchison River, the biggest river of the region. To move a bit we walked and climbed down to the river. The way is 2.6 km long and very step and demanding. But it was worth it. The only thing disturbing are the flies. Next we drove to the Nature's Window. We realized that the sun is already too high. I looked at the path leading to the ridge. It looked difficult and we decided not to hike here. Then we left the park and returned into it a few kilometer in the north. We stopped at the viewpoint at Hawk's Head, but it was only a not so spectacular view to the river. Thus we drove further to the Ross Graham Lookout. Here we saw the river and the width of the park. We hiked down to the river and enjoyed the different colors of the rocks. To recover from the heat we went back to Kalbarri. On the way we made a short stop at the Meanarra Hill Lookout and joyed the endless vastness of Australia. On one side we could only see the national park, on the other we saw Murchison River flowing into the sea.

The afternoon we slept and recovered from the last days. As the temperature got a bit more bearable we walked along the river shore to Chinamans Rock. From here we could see the river hitting the sea. It happens that waves from both sides met each other. We looked at the sunset, but it was Unfortunately behind the clouds. As it was Sunday, we enjoyed the dinner with wine.

The long drive to Tom Price

by Petra Bucheli
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Wednesday 21st March, 2012

Already very early in the morning I got waken by the parrots. They started to make big noise shortly after 3am. In between I could sleep again, but it was not very recreative. At 5:45am the alarm rung as there is a long day awaiting us. We enjoyed a bit the morning atmosphere and started just before sunrise. Our first stop was a termite mound to which a sign pointed. Here we watched it from close. Then we continued driving and had to care that we did not hit any sheep as they were grazing at the side of the road. Our journey was accompanied also by emus and a few cows. We also made a few picture stops in the outback. I realized that Australia is not really flat as we were passing a wonderful hill landscape. The area got greener and greener and yellow and red shades made it very interesting. A cyclone had passed last week and there has been a lot of rain. The last 70 km to Tom Price are gravel road. After we passed the 50 km the sound of our vehicle changed immediately. We immediately found our problem: in the back the left tire was completely broken. We were looking for the spare tire and prepared for a long waiting as we did not have mobile phone reception. But very soon two friendly Australians passed and stopped. They helped us to change the tire and we were very thankful. They told us that they are checking the road for damage made by the cyclone. With the spare tire we drove to Tom Price and looked there for a mechanic. He explained that a new one will be 300 dollars. Or he could look if he has an used one. We called Apollo and they wanted a new one which we should have to pay. Sandra explained that we also did not have new tires on the camper. The answer as always: the car was checked for damage. We know this saying already too good. As the mechanic talked to Apollo, he demanded them to pay. Let's see how this resolves, but first we enjoy our vacation. During dinner preparation we talked to an Australian who told us that all gravel roads in the Karijini National Park are closed. The main road is tarred and can be used. We should go to the visitor center and inform us about the road situation. We will do that and hope to see something from the National Park. She told us also that the parrots are so noisy because they feed their chicks and this all around the clock. I just hope they do this not anymore beside our camper.

Cape Range Nationalpark

by Petra Bucheli
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Monday 19th March, 2012

Shortly after we had to show the park pass there were any parrots sitting on the street. The flew away just to land again a few meters ahead in front of our camper. They made that game twice and then Sandra told me to go on. We wanted to drive until the end of the park for a short walk. On the way I saw a kangaroo sitting in the bush. As soon as we left the car it jumped away. We saw a few more on the mountain side. We enjoyed from far the jumping animals and continued. During the drive we also saw a few emus walking through the bush. After a few picture stops we arrived at Yardie Creek Gorge. There a river is crossing the park. We hiked for an hour around the river to get an impression of the landscape at the river. But we did not want to hike longer as it was already hot. We drove back to the Mandu Mandu Gorge. Here there is another 3 km hike, but we did not do it as it got warmer and warmer. So we drove to Turquoise Bay and walked along the turquoise water. Our last destination on the western side of the National Park was Mangrove Bay. Not even the hint of Sandra made me think that it could have something to do with mangrove trees. We had to go back to Exmouth to get to the southern side of the National Park. After another 20 km we took the way to the Shothole Canyon under wheels. The gravel road in the canyon goes up and up. For the last hundred meters we even needed the 4WD. On the way in and out we saw we saw many beautiful rocks shimmering in different colours. The Shothole Canyon amazed us with its diversity of colours. Back on the road we went to the Charles Knife Road. First a normal road, then a gravel road which leads up higher and higher. Up there was a beautiful view over the canyons, the sea and the endless width of Australia.

An unusual birthday

by Petra Bucheli
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Saturday 17th March, 2012

Shortly before sunrise we awoke as I wanted to take pictures of the sunrise. But according to Sandra I was not allowed to get back inside of the camper. Already inside I heard the flies buzzing and when I went outside I was surrounded by some of them. Now I understood Sandra's warning. Soon we continued driving and enjoyed the morning atmosphere around us. Far ahead a kangaroo crossed the road. Our first destination was Carnavon, a seemingly nice town. Unfortunately the road was under construction in the center. We enjoyed a breakfast and went shopping and filling up fuel. Then we drove to the blowholes where a nice coast awaited us. The blowholes produce only small fountains as the tide was not yet in. We thus decided to drive to Lake Macleod, a salt lake. After we came back again to the blowholes, but now the fountains were gone. After the next fuel stop we drove to Coral Bay. While driving I saw some strange rocks and asked Sandra, if they might be termite mounds. With some distance, we did not know if these animals attack, we made a few pictures of them. Later we saw a emu crossing the road, good luck we did not need to slam on the brakes. In Coral Bay we were looking for a camping. Unfortunately we could not rent snorkel equipment for today anymore, thus we have to wait until tomorrow. Shortly before sunset we took a refreshing bath in the sea. For the sunset I was back at the shore, but Sandra stayed in the water. During dinner we go a show as a silly German remove this clothes and run from the kitchen. I did not really see it as it was behind my back, but Sandra had a VIP place.